One of the things I remember most about Edinburgh isn't a specific landmark—it's the evenings.

Edinburgh feels like two different cities depending on the time of day. Once the day crowds begin to thin, historic pubs fill with conversation, traditional music drifts through open doorways, and streets that had been busy all afternoon become quieter and more intimate.

While every pub has its own personality, these are the places and experiences I'd recommend building an evening around.

Looking for Traditional Scottish Music?

If hearing traditional Scottish folk music is on your Edinburgh wish list, I'd intentionally seek out a pub known for live sessions.

Sandy Bell's

Best For: Traditional Scottish folk music

Sandy Bell's has earned a reputation as one of Edinburgh's best places to experience traditional Scottish music in an authentic setting. Rather than formal performances, musicians often gather for informal sessions that make you feel like you've stumbled upon something locals have enjoyed for generations.

The Royal Oak

Best For: Traditional folk sessions in a cozy neighborhood pub

The Royal Oak is another favorite for live folk music and offers a smaller, intimate setting where musicians regularly gather for traditional sessions. If you're hoping to experience Edinburgh's music scene beyond the larger pubs, it's well worth adding to your list.

Planning Tip: Live music doesn't happen every night, so check each pub's schedule before your visit if it's something you'd especially like to experience.

Interested in Exploring Scotch Whisky?

Edinburgh is one of the best places to discover Scotch whisky, whether you've been drinking it for years or are simply curious to learn more.

The Bow Bar

Best For: Whisky lovers and traditional pub atmosphere

Known for its extensive whisky selection and excellent local ales, The Bow Bar has become one of the city's classic whisky pubs. It manages to feel welcoming rather than intimidating, making it a great place to ask questions, try a whisky flight, or simply enjoy a pint in a traditional Edinburgh setting.

Planning Tip: Instead of asking for the "best" whisky, tell the bartender what flavors you normally enjoy. They'll often recommend something you may never have chosen on your own.

Interested in Edinburgh's Historic Pubs?

Some of Edinburgh's pubs have been welcoming visitors for centuries, making them attractions in their own right.

The Sheep Heid Inn

Best For: Historic atmosphere

Often considered Scotland's oldest pub, The Sheep Heid Inn dates back to the 1300s and makes an excellent stop if you're already exploring Holyrood Park or Arthur's Seat. Its history alone makes it worth considering as part of your itinerary.

The White Hart Inn

Best For: History in the heart of the Old Town

Located in the Grassmarket, The White Hart Inn is another of Edinburgh's oldest pubs and offers a historic setting just a short walk from many of the city's most popular sights.

Planning Tip: Historic pubs can become busy during peak travel seasons. If you're hoping to enjoy dinner as well as drinks, it's worth making a reservation where possible.

One I Personally Enjoyed

The Devil's Advocate

Best For: Cocktails, whisky, and Old Town atmosphere

Tucked away down one of the Old Town's hidden closes, The Devil's Advocate was one of my favorite pubs I visited in Edinburgh. The historic setting, welcoming atmosphere, and impressive whisky selection made it feel distinctly Scottish without feeling overly touristy.

Whether you're stopping in for a cocktail, exploring Scotland's whiskies, or simply looking for a memorable place to spend part of your evening, it's one I'd happily recommend adding to your itinerary.

✦ Editor's Note: This was one of my favorite discoveries in Edinburgh, and it's one of the first places I'd return to on my next visit.

A Few More Worth Knowing

If you're looking to explore beyond the recommendations above, these pubs are also worth adding to your list:

• Café Royal — Known for its beautifully preserved Victorian interior and classic Edinburgh atmosphere.

• The Last Drop — A historic Grassmarket pub that's popular for its character and occasional traditional music.

• The Oxford Bar — A long-standing local favorite known for its traditional atmosphere and literary connections.

A Few Things I'd Know Before You Go

• Plan on visiting two or three pubs over the course of an evening rather than spending the entire night in one place.

• If traditional music is on your wish list, check pub schedules before your visit—many sessions only take place on certain nights.

• Reservations are worth considering if you're planning to have dinner at a popular pub, especially on weekends.

• Don't feel like you need to order whisky. Edinburgh has excellent local beers, cocktails, cider, and non-alcoholic options as well.

• Many of the best pub experiences happen simply by wandering between neighborhoods after dinner, so leave a little flexibility in your evening.

Pair It with the Right Hotel

If experiencing Edinburgh's pub culture is high on your list, I'd recommend staying somewhere within walking distance of both the Old Town and New Town. Being able to wander from pub to pub before walking back to your hotel was one of my favorite parts of the trip.

→ If you're still deciding where to stay, my guide on Where to Stay in Edinburgh shares the neighborhoods and hotels I'd recommend depending on the kind of trip you're planning.

Continue Planning Your Edinburgh Trip

If you're looking for more ideas while building your itinerary, these guides will help you make the most of your time in Edinburgh.

• Planning Your First Trip to Edinburgh

• Where to Stay in Edinburgh

• Meaningful Souvenirs to Bring Home from Edinburgh

From the Edit

Some of my favorite memories from Edinburgh weren't tied to castles or viewpoints—they happened around a pub table.

Whether it was listening to traditional music, discovering another hidden close, or ending the night with one last walk through the Old Town, those evenings gave me a completely different appreciation for the city.

Some evenings were planned. Others simply started with a pint.

The best pub experiences aren't just about the drinks.